Body-kit installation checklist: fit, paint and hardware

A body kit is judged on the vehicle, not in the box. The pieces can look perfect and still fail at the wheel arch because a clip was missing, the tape was applied to a cold dirty surface, or the kit was painted before it was test-fitted.

This checklist is for the installer or body shop receiving a kit: what to check before, during and after installation, the painting and texture options, the common failure points, and the information a buyer should ask the supplier for with the order.

What to ask the supplier before the kit ships

• Fitting guide — step order, torque or tape guidance, and which original parts are removed or kept.
• Hardware list — clips, screws, tape, brackets and template pieces, with quantities per kit.
• Pack marks — carton numbers that map to the parts inside, and side marks for handed pieces.
• Material and finish — PP or ABS, textured or paint-ready, and the recommended preparation method.
• Spare clips — a small bag of the most breakable fasteners; the cheapest insurance in the box.

If any of those is missing, ask before installation day, not after. This is also the moment to confirm the kit fits the exact generation and facelift of the vehicle, not just the model name.

Before installation: fitment prep

1. Dry-fit every piece first. Mount the kit on the vehicle with the tape backing on and no paint or adhesive applied. Check the gaps to the factory panels and mark any pressure points.
2. Clean and degrease the surfaces. Adhesive tape fails on dust, wax, silicone or old polish. Use an approved surface cleaner and let it flash off.
3. Remove the original trim correctly. Clips break; have replacements before you start. Keep the original parts so the customer can reverse the modification if needed.
4. Plan the order. Front lip or bumper first, then flares, side skirts, spoiler and rear pieces, so the large parts do not block access to the smaller fixings.
5. Check for hidden damage. A bent bumper bracket or a misaligned fender will show up as a kit that does not fit, even when the kit is correct.

Painting and texture options

Finish	What it means	Preparation
Textured black	Factory-style matte texture, no paint needed	Clean only; keep the texture consistent
Paint-ready	Smooth or primed surface for body-colour	Sand, prime, base coat, clear coat; follow the material data
Painted to code	Supplier or local shop paints to the vehicle code	Confirm the code and a spray-out card before full painting
Gloss black	Painted or moulded gloss finish	Polish and protect; be careful with solvent cleaners

Two rules keep painted kits out of trouble: test-fit before painting, and paint the kit and the vehicle in the same booth conditions where possible so the colour match holds. Follow the material manufacturer’s adhesion and flexibility guidance — a rigid clear coat on a flexible flare can crack.

During installation: the panel-gap check

• Gap to factory panels — run a consistent gap around the wheel arch, doors and bumper. Mark the high spots and adjust before final tape-off.
• Flare fitment — flares are usually the piece that shows errors first. Confirm the clip positions against the wheel-arch lip and that the flare does not foul the tyre at full lock.
• Bumper and lip alignment — the lip should follow the bumper line, not pull it out of shape.
• Side-skirt ends — check both ends against the wheel arches; a small gap at one end usually means the part is slightly offset, not defective.
• Hardware torque — hand-tight for trim clips, per the guide for load-bearing brackets; do not over-tighten plastic.

Common failure points

• Tape lift at the leading edge. Usually from cold or dirty surfaces, or from not applying pressure for the specified time.
• Flare cracks around the fasteners. Overtightening, or a missing washer or grommet.
• Gaps that open in hot weather. Warp or a kit fitted without dry-fitting to the final position.
• Colour mismatch on painted kits. Paint batches differ; use one booth and a spray-out card.
• Missing clip sets. The bag was not inventoried at goods-in; count hardware against the list on arrival.
• Wheel-arch rubbing on tyre or liner. Check the tyre size and suspension before blaming the kit.

After installation

Give the customer the care instructions: no high-pressure jet close to the tape edge for the first days, re-check the fixings after the first long drive, and keep the spare clips. Record photos of the finished vehicle and the serial or batch details from the cartons — useful for any warranty conversation.

For material choice, the steel vs plastic vs fibreglass comparison explains why body kits are usually PP or ABS, and the body kits category lists the current families. The kit part pages, such as the Hilux Revo body kit and the Ranger T6 body kit, show the fitment range for each platform.

To add installation-friendly packing and a fitting guide to an order, send the platform and the kit list — the quotation confirms the SKU, packing and document set. Our quality and documents page describes the inspection and document pack that ships with the order.

FAQ

Should the kit be painted before or after test-fitting? Test-fit first, paint second. Dry-fitting shows the gaps and pressure points before any finish is applied, and it prevents painting a part that then needs return or adjustment.

What causes body kit tape to fail? Dirt, wax or silicone on the surface, low application temperature, or too little pressure after application. Clean and degrease, apply at the recommended temperature, and press firmly along the full length of the tape.

Why do flares crack around the fixings? Usually over-tightening, a missing washer or grommet, or the flare being forced to a shape it does not fit. Check the arch clip positions and torque, and dry-fit the flare before final installation.

What should I ask the supplier for with a kit? A fitting guide, a hardware list with quantities, carton marks, material and finish guidance, and a small bag of spare clips. Ask for the fitment range for the exact generation and facelift, not just the model name.